The Adventure Continues…St. Barthelemy, St. Martin and Anguilla, Guadeloupe and Les Saintes

March 1

February in Guadeloupe and Les Saints

February flew by in a flash and I’m exhausted. Eric and Bailey visited us on Two Captains. I really wish they could have brought Ruby, their new puppy but we still had a great time. They joined us in Antigua where we enjoyed a couple days at dock and on anchor then, sailed with us to Guadeloupe, then to Les Saintes and finally back to Guadeloupe so they could catch their flight home.

We endured a sporty sail from Antigua to Guadeloupe. While no one was feeling their best, Bailey and I (yes, me, Dodger) both got seasick. The rollers were 8-10ft and hitting us on our beam. The day started with light wind then kicked up to 20 kts and then died completely right before we hit the island though the sea state didn’t subside. We were very happy to finally make it to Deshaies, Guadeloupe where we were fortunate to find a mooring and Dad found a great pastry shop. The next day we headed off for Les Saintes which thankfully turned out to be a glorious sail.

I think every one really enjoyed Les Saints for the food, snorkeling and picturesque beauty. We enjoyed a hike to see Fort Napoleon which happens to close at 12:30pm for the day (gotta love the French work schedule). Mom said the snorkeling here was the best they saw this season. Water was crystal clear, variety of fish exceptional, and the volume of fish abundant at Îlet à Cabrit. We didn’t make it to Pain du Sucre this trip, but we have heard it’s great there and at Anse Fidel.

As usual, the food choices were phenomenal as we were on a French Island. Restraunts were dog friendly and I went almost everywhere with the crew. A few food highlights included the omelettes right by the ferry dock, dinner at La Fringale, and a “surpirse menu” at Au Bon Vivre.

But alas we had to say goodbye to Eric and Bailey so we sailed back to Guadeloupe so we could catch a flight back to the states. Yes, I said we, more on that next time.

Au Revoir for now.

January 31

January has been a whirlwind. We have covered another ~300nm. Islands visited this month include Antigua, Barbuda, St. Barthelemy, St. Martin and Anguilla. After the Richards returned home, we departed Antigua headed for Gustavia, St. Barth! The sail was a sleigh ride covering over 70nm in 9 hours averaging 8.5kts in 6-8ft seas. Gustavia is where the billionaires go for holiday, but we enjoyed the same views, the same great food, and the same crystal clear aquamarine water on a relatively meager budget. We enjoyed snorkeling at Plage de Colombier, spectacular meals in off-piste locations on St. Barth’s, and a day exploring the island by car including stops at Nikki Beach (not dog friendly, but a shoppers delight), Lorient and Grand Fond (a harsh lee shore best seen from land vs boat).

We departed St. Barth for St. Martin where we planned to meet our good friends and fellow buddy boaters Mike and Lori Wingert who have been sailing the Caribbean the last several years on their beautiful Bavaria Vision 46 Eagle Rae. We were then joined by our very dear friends Emma and Denton Bales for what would turn out to be quite an adventurous week highlighted by a 30+ kt passage between Anguilla and St. Martin, 36 hours on the boat together in an anchorage with winds upward of 40kts, a spirited game of Pictionary, a viewing of Captain Ron and lots of food, laughs and good times. By the end of their stay, Denny was promoted to Dinghy Captain and Emma wooed the group finding one of the very best restaurants on the island!

As all good things must come to an end, Emma and Denny returned home and it was time for us to begin making our way south again. Mom couldn’t resist another stop at St. Barths for more snorkeling and amazing meals. Mom learned a very important lesson. Don’t swim with the sargassam seaweed! Turns out Jellyfish larvae live in this seaweed. Mom felt stinging, but didn’t think much of it as it was initially not too painful. Later that night was a different story. She broke out with small blister like rash in the shape of little tentacles all over her body. After 2 days on antihistamines, calamine lotion, ice treatment and aloe applications, she finally appears to be on the mend. Whew!

We just completed an 11 hour passage back to Antigua where we will leave the boat to head back to the states for a week. Then we will be back at the sailing adventures in February!

December 13

This week we welcomed our good friends the Presunka’s to Two Captains!

Check out our Blog to find out more about the adventure.

December 3

An interesting week indeed. Mom, Dad, and I are beginning to experience some of the joys of cruising like stunning anchorages, daily swims, paddle boarding, snorkeling, and more. I’m keeping it interesting by constantly trying to poison myself. I’ve tried salt water in copious amounts, a lick of what looked like antifreeze (who needs antifreeze in the Caribbean?), and raisins. Mom and Dad now have pet poison control on speed dial. They tried to make me throw up with hydrogen peroxide, but my iron stomach has proven no match for any of these toxins. If I were a cat, they would say I’ve used at least 3 of my 9 lives.

Speaking of toxins, while we have enjoyed some breathtaking scenery above the water, we have seen firsthand the impacts of harmful products like chemical sunscreens on reef life. Many of the reefs we see appear monochromatic and unwell. Mom is now on a mission to ensure we keep all non-reef-safe products off the boat and out of our home. The importance of using reef-safe mineral-based sunscreens is amplified when you see the underwater environments looking sickly.

The reality is that people need skin protection, and sunscreen is a common method for protection. The Oceanic Society has helpful information on what chemicals to avoid and recommendations for sunscreen that protects humans and the reefs. We are going to try out sunscreen from Raw Elements that is non-nano, and reef-friendly in a bio-plastic tube. If you know of a better product or have other recommendations, message my Mom and Dad here.

NOVEMBER 27TH

Where does the time go?! The last week and a half has been filled with boat projects, like fixing a broken water pump (more on this shortly), dinghy engine repairs, getting custom brackets welded to better mount our gas tank in the locker, and at least 1 visit per day on average to Budget Marine which is not aptly named and are not dog-friendly so Mom and I sit outside on a step in the shade while Dad makes his daily rounds. I went in once or twice before we realized they were not dog-friendly and can I tell you, their A/C is heavenly! Maybe that’s why Dad likes to go everyday.

We enjoyed some beautiful beach days and incredible Antiguan entertainment at one of the welcome dinners! I learned to swim. Now swimming is my favorite pastime along with dinghy rides and chasing butterflies. I bark excessively every time I see them getting in the dinghy as I need to make absolutely sure they don’t forget me.

We enjoyed Thanksgiving dinner with our fellow Salty Dawg’s at the Antigua Yacht Club. They had all the fixings including turkey, gravy, mashed potatoes, stuffing, cranberry sauce, and even pumpkin pie! After Thanksgiving Mom and Dad were ready to get back on the water so we headed up to Carlise Bay, this time by boat. We anchored out and it was absolutely gorgeous. The water was a little silty, but still quite blue. We all enjoyed a swim and “sundowners” with our friends from Maalu IV. Mom and Dad were so tired they skipped dinner and went to bed after checking out a very cool moon sitting on the bow of Two Captains. It had been a long day, our anchor held well and we all slept great.

Mom woke at dawn as she tends to do and quickly discovered our fresh water pump wasn’t working…and you may recall we just replaced this one while on passage. Well, as luck would have it, fellow Dawg’s on Pilar heard of our plight and dropped everything to come and help. Turns out, Stephen from SailingPILAR is a water pump expert! How lucky are we? After an hour or so of troubleshooting Stephen proved his point that water pumps never break, something else is the issue. Turns out the pressure sensor went bad. The guys rigged the system bypassing the sensor as a temporary fix (fresh water is kind of important when off-grid) and we headed up to Jolly Harbor where we hoped to find the parts we needed to make more permanent repairs. We were the fortunate recipients of “sailors helping sailors” and will be sure to pay it forward when we can!

Now we are enjoying all that Jolly Harbor has to offer with two major highlights an even bigger Budget Marine and Epicurean. Epicurean Fine Foods is the best grocery store we have been to thus far, having more fresh fruits and vegetables than we saw in English Harbor.

November 13th: We Made It! Hello Antigua!

〰️

November 13th: We Made It! Hello Antigua! 〰️

Sweet Caroline at Sunrise, Antigua

My last post ended on days 6-7 at sea. We hit the trades on day 8 and things got spicy quickly. The winds picked up to a very consistent 14-20 knots and the seas built accordingly. The crew kept talking about “Easting” which I’ve learned translates to beating upwind in sizable seas with 2-3 meter swell and chop, the boat healed at 15 degrees or more, making life generally difficult, Mom might say “miserable”. It was difficult to sleep though we were exhausted because of the constant roar of the water and the boat occasionally bashing into a large wave. The crew was tired, and a bit queasy at times, Mom was sick for about 12 hours, but everyone got through it without losing any lunch, so to speak. Kenny stepped up and made dinner when Mom couldn’t and really everyone dug deep and pitched in to get us through the last few more challenging days at sea. Which reminds me, Mike made dinner earlier in the trip and the crew got to try Minnesota Hot Dish for a hearty dinner. It was a first for most of us and welcomed after a long day of passage-making. Mom’s happy anytime she doesn’t have to cook!

On we charged through the trades, the boat cut through the waves like a freight train! We were flying, hitting 10kts of boat speed regularly. Dad described sailing at night in those conditions like flying Santa’s Sleigh through the night in pitch darkness. I also heard it likened to riding a rocket ship through space. You can see nothing and are forced to rely solely on your instruments.

But alas, as the sun rose 10 days after leaving Hampton, VA we saw our first glimpse of lights on land! The sunrise was amazing as Antigua slowly came into focus. As we approached the island we were flanked by fellow Dawgs Sweet Caroline and For Pete’s Sake. We pulled into English Harbor and the crew tensed for what was Dad’s first time to med-moor Two Captains. The dock staff at Nelson’s Dockyard was top-notch and guided Dad over the radio through a very tricky mooring procedure in a very difficult location. By 8:30am, we were safely docked. I could smell the grass and the trees and was anxious to pee on dry land, but had to wait just a little longer while first Dad cleared all our crew through customs. Then the Antiguian Chief Veterinary Officer came directly to our boat to approve my entry onto the island. Thank goodness it was only paperwork and no more shots!

The crew got off the boat and celebrated with lunch and a round of Painkillers. Everyone was exhausted and Mom was beside herself with joy when Dad agreed to have the boat professionally cleaned inside and out. We have to give a big shout-out to Cookie’s crew who washed the topsides and polished the stainless making Two Captains look like new again, Maude’s Laundry (cell: 268-728-3115) who came and took 10 days of very yucky laundry off to clean and returned it perfectly washed and folded, and then Camille and Rochelle (cell: 268-721-8618) who cleaned the interior top to bottom. Let me tell you, cleaning a boat after 2000 miles of travel is a dirty job, even when the crew does their best to maintain it along the way.

Mom and Dad got a hotel room for a couple of nights at Admiral’s Inn and we were all so thankful for a bed that didn’t rock, a shower you could let run and not worry about rationing water, and air conditioning that didn’t require a noisy generator running in the background.

We are celebrating our arrival with our Salty Dawg compatriots, taking lovely day hikes, checking out some nearby beaches, and generally decompressing! More to come next week!

November 9th

As we headed out on Friday, November 3rd at 7:30am, it was cold and clear. Due to a last minute crew change, we were joined by our good friend Ken Delpapa who arrived just a few hours prior to departure and about 12 hours after getting the call that we needed an extra hand. Kenny’s our hero!

Hampton to Antigua

Part I

Approaching the Gulfstream brought with it a little trepidation and the skies looked a bit ominous at times, but it wasn’t so bad.The seas were a bit rough, but not terrible with 8-10ft swell. Then we crossed the Hatteras Abyssal Plain where the depths reached more than 17,000 ft!

Day 3 and I was bored out of my mind, and the crew was distracted with silly things like weather forecasts, route planning and repairing a broken water pump while heaved to. So, what better to do than to eat Mom’s headphones? She wasn’t happy and kept on about how they were her cure for seasickness. Then she got oddly quiet, laid on the couch, and didn’t look so great. Not sure what her problem was.

Day 4 and things are starting to settle down and get good. Here’s a short respite of quiet time right before the boys decided to make about 5 sail changes in just a few hours.

Day’s 5-6 of the passage finally started to warm up and the crew got in the groove fishing, manning watches, meal prep and clean up, testing sail configurations and more. There were lots of laughs, amazing sunsets, sunrises and good times! I think they must have changed the sail plan at least 5 times yesterday which is a lot when you have to take up and down very large sails. But the big news was we got our first fish! It was a beautiful 4ft Marlin. Mike did a great job getting the hook out to release the fish back into the blue water.

BIG NEWS (so they tell me). We finally hit the trade winds which will carry us directly to Antigua! They have the “Big Jib” out we are floating along making around 6+ knots in about 8 knots of breeze. It doesn’t get better than this!

October 31st

It’s Halloween. I did not support nor condone my likeness being used in this image. 

Happy Halloween!

Two Captains is planning to depart for Antigua early morning November 2nd!

Route planning. The caution symbols represent areas of potential challenges, such as wind against current, wave height, high wind, etc. Let’s avoid those as much as possible please.

Overseeing the operation and communication on emergency tiller protocol

Dad’s giving Mike and Bill a review of our emergency tiller procedure while I supervise.

October 31st

Happy Halloween! This might be my last post for a bit depending on how the passage goes. Two Captains has a planned departure of 11/2. The crew is as prepared as we can be and excited to get underway. Isn’t there a song, “Waiting is the hardest part”? Maybe not true in this case, but time will tell. I’m sorry you had to see that picture of my Mom and Dad on Halloween; so embarrassing….maybe you can tell from my expression.

October 27th

OCTOBER 27th

What a whirlwind week! We flew to TX to visit the family. I got to meet my cousin Jack and Morgan’s boyfriend Hayden. We celebrated Mom’s Birthday, Morgan’s birthday and were there for Mimaw’s hip surgery. She’ll be dancing in no time! We got to visit with Mason and Elina (side note: Elina’s kinda into me. Just saying…).

Now we are back at the boat and the crew is all here! Mike Wingert arrived yesterday and now we are waiting for Hurricane Tammy to fizzle out and get a decent weather window to set sail!

Hampton, Virginia

October 20th

Last Port Before Antigua

October 6

Our First Passage RI - MD

Never a dull moment on Two Captains. I’m helping Ken and Dad troubleshoot oil in the bilge while Bill and Mom sail up Delaware Bay

My morning watch, Sassafrass River, MD. Yes, my watch is mission critical even if we are safely anchored

Me and the rest of my crew: Dad, Mom, Ken Delpapa and Bill Wheary after fueling up in Wickford, RI. Ready to head into the great blue ocean

We saw SO many Dolphins! Check out video 1 and video 2

Enjoying a sureal sunset at sea ~80 miles offshore near Hudson Canyon

Bill goes forward while tethered in to check the tension on the halyard

September 29th

Shake Downs and Chilling with Friends

September 29

This week was time for Two Captains shake down cruise after replacing a heat exchanger on the engine and countless other projects. Our friends and fellow sailors Ryan and Jennifer Yost joined us for the cruise around Narraganset Bay. Everything on the boat checked out well. Mom may have failed to close a cabinet or two before a sporty tack, but other than that the boat checked out well.

The next day we got to join the Yost’s on their Moody 45 which was heavenly. It was such a comfortable sail, I could hardly keep my eyes open. Mom looked pretty relaxed too.

  • Wickford, RI

    Hurricane Lee passed us with little impact at our hurricane hole here in Rhode Island. Whew! Now Mom and Dad are back to preparing for our passage, with my help of course!

  • Packing the Ditch Bag

    As a part of offshore preparation, we need to pack the ditch bag and I’m here to help! The question is; am I packing or unpacking? I’ll let you guess.

  • Ship Shape

    Sailing can be physically taxing so I need to make sure I’m ship-shape! Here I am “helping” Mom with her morning workout routine. I’m not sure why, but she wanted my spot.

  • Changing the Water Filters

    Dad definitely needed my help with this project. He could not have completed the job without me cheering him on from above.

Get ready to em-”bark” on a grand adventure!

Dodger's Briefing

CAPTAIN'S BRIEFING

CAPTAIN'S BRIEFING

October 4

Wickford, RI to Annapolis, MD

The adventure begins…weather permitting of course! This will be our very first overnight sail as we make our way toward Hampton, Virginia where we will join other Salty Dawg’s for the SDSA Caribbean Rally to Antigua. The plan is to stop in Annapolis to check out the boat show October 12th - 15th. Ken Delpapa, Dad’s good friend from college, and Bill Wheary, a Captain with tons of bluewater sailing experience will join us for this first leg of the adventure. I hope they remember to bring treats!

October 16

Annapolis, MD to Hampton, VA

Mom and Dad say we want to be in Hampton by October 18. Apparently, they still have more work to do and they want to enjoy some of the festivities put on by the SDSA Rally!

November 1

Hampton, VA to Antigua

It’s time to tether in and put on my puppy life preserver for the big 1500-mile passage to the Caribbean! I hear the first few days could be quite sporty and cold as we navigate to cross the Gulf Stream. For this passage we will be joined by our very good friend Mike Wingert and once again, Captain Bill Wheary! Dad and Mike both play guitar and Dad has been practicing a lot! I expect I’ll be helping them sing. Yes, Papillons are very musical.

Welcome to Dodger's Diaries!

Hi! I’m Dodger. My Mom and Dad have been preparing for an adventure at sea. We will be sailing aboard their Hallberg-Rassey 49MK-II. The plan is to leave Wickford, RI, and to travel for the next several months with an eventual destination of Grenada an island in the West Indies of the Caribbean. Crew, friends, and family will join us along the way and I’ll share a tale of exploration, discovery, and unforgettable memories with all of you. Follow along as we take you on a journey filled with captivating pictures, exhilarating videos, and a few links that will help you follow along on the adventure. Let your imagination run wild as I transport you to breathtaking destinations and our unique experiences. So join us and let the adventure begin!